Late 1800s: Last Of The Victorians
As the nineteenth century drew to a conclusion men were slowly shaking-off the Victorian influence which still had them wearing top-hats, frock coats, and pocket watches while carrying walking sticks. This may seem like an ornate and restricted way to dress, but it was a major step in the right direction since the Georgian period that preceding it saw males wearing feathers, panty hose, and high heels. And you thought you were a “dandy”.
1900s: Tall, Long & Lean
As we progressed into the 1900s men’s attire was largely practical and quite stiff. The long, slim, and athletic shape of the late 1890s survived, and tall, stiff collars characterize the time. Three-piece suits consisting of a sack coat with matching waistcoat and pants were worn, as were matching coat and waistcoat with contrasting trousers, or matching coat and trousers with contrasting waistcoat. Trousers were shorter than previously, typically had “turn-ups” or “cuffs“, and were creased front and back using the newly-invented trouser press.
After the war (which brought some iconic menswear designs that are being used today, such trench coats and cargos), commerce started to perk up and Americans had more money. More money allowed them to travel more and extend their horizons culturally and artistically. Many crossed the Atlantic to England and France. Naturally, they returned with luggage full of the latest fashion from overseas.
Of all the countries, England had the biggest effect on American clothing. In the 1920s, American college students began putting their own touch on things being worn at the famed Oxford University, including button-down shirts, natural-shouldered coats, regimental ties, and colorful argyle socks. Furthermore, the Prince of Wales, who subsequently became the Duke of Windsor, was the world’s most prominent and influential clothing figure. Through newsreels, newspapers, and magazines, the exquisite Prince became the first international “style icon” and became well known and acclaimed for his excellent taste in apparel. He was a true trendsetter for every day people and it was the first time in history that clothes merchants would utilize a celebrity face to sell apparel, brazenly pushing their wares “as worn by the Prince”.
1930s: The Height Of Elegance
The begining of the 1930s witnessed the Great Depression. Although the typical guy couldn’t afford to engage in the world of fashion, many often loved admiring the style choices of those who could. Hollywood films on the Silver Screen were a beacon for hope for the working class guy living in this age. Men and women alike looked with awe and desire to finely dressed entertainers like Fred Astaire, Clark Gabel, Cary Grant, and Gary Cooper.
In the 1930s, the American taste level was at its pinnacle, rivaling that of any European country. It was a time when American men took pleasure in the apparel they wore and the image they portrayed. It was a time when men dressed by particular norms of conduct and etiquette. The “menswear rules”, which we commonly cite, were written in this time.
“For the first time, American men realized that clothing should not be worn to hide the natural lines of the body, but, rather, to conform to them, thereby enhancing he male physique. At the same time, garments should not be too conspicuous. Instead, they had to become part of the man who was wearing them. The goal of clothes was not to set the man apart (as had been the case for ages, when monarchs and noblemen dressed largely to do precisely that) but to allow him to be an individual among individuals…. Americans had finally leanred that the purpose of decent attire was to flatter rather than be conspicuous.” — Alan Flusser
1940s: The Birth Of Ready-to-wear
With the end of World War II, American men drifted from the high standards and basic principles of elegant clothing established in the thirties. Part of this was changes in the workforce and the lack of formality in everyday life. With decreasing demand, the price of bespoke tailoring climbed, which enabled for the mass manufacturing of menswear to takeover as the common standard. This time witnessed the debut of mass made ready-to-wear apparel in America, with some firms still selling us items now.
There were pros and downsides to these new technologies of mass manufacturing. On the one hand, basic apparel was cheaper and more available than ever. On the other hand, there was less diversity in the fashions being supplied, and, much worse, these large clothing manufacturers understood (much like the vehicle manufacturers) that they could boost sales by giving changes in styles every year, or even every season. This began the “trend cycle” in retail, which was manufactured by clothes manufacturers to earn more money and pushed by the magazine business, likewise to make more money.
Ultimately, this marketing technique moved the customer farther and further away from the “ideals of classical dress” established in the 1930s, which were all about picking long-term items that best flatter the figure. Instead, the purpose of clothiers became to confuse and compel the client to perpetually “re-invent himself” by acquiring “new styles” that are “in fashion”. This drives more sales with little consideration for the durability or attractiveness of the appearance.
Read Also: 1830s Men's Fashion On Modern Styles
1950s: The Age Of Conformity
The 1950s was the Age of Conformity. Young men returning from the military were desperate to fit right in with the establishment. Fitting in and “looking the part” meant taking on the Ivy League style, which was dominating menswear. Individuality in style of clothing was an afterthought. The idea was to seem “part of the club”, with a boxy sack suit, oxford shirt, rep tie, and shoes. This was another significant boost for mass Ready-to-Wear makers who eagerly supplied the identical, ill-fitting tweed coats to any young guy seeking to seem sophisticated and employable.
Furthermore, the 1950s witnessed the debut of man-made materials like rayon and nylon. This was another boost to the bottom line for the clothing makers who could now save greatly on the cost of fabric, while creating a garment that was supposed to be “more durable and easiest to wash”. As it turns out, synthetic material makes for horrible menswear clothes, especially in suiting. Natural fibers are usually superior.
Aesthetically, the time was characterized by conservative gray suits and simple accessories (hat, pocket square, cigarette, and martini) for just about everyone.
1960s: Rebellion & Individuality
The 1960s were a decade of upheaval and rebellion against the establishment and the conservatism that was praised in the 1950s. Clothing reflected this changing mentality, especially among the youth who were more concerned with self-expression and individualism than traditional clothing by the “rulebook”. The apparel industry latched on to this new trend with the young and created a diversity of designs. Stores carried greater variety than ever. It was nearing a “anything goes” time, where often the thing that counted the most was not what you wore, but what you didn’t wear.
The was also the first time that dads began appealing to their kids for counsel. The first time in history when mature men aspired to seem young and care-free. This movement, of course, just moved us farther away from the principles of elegance that were established in the 1930s.
Ola Hansen 
Late 1800s: Last Of The Victorians
As the nineteenth century drew to a conclusion men were slowly shaking-off the Victorian influence which still had them wearing top-hats, frock coats, and pocket watches while carrying walking sticks. This may seem like an ornate and restricted way to dress, but it was a major step in the right direction since the Georgian period that preceding it saw males wearing feathers, panty hose, and high heels. And you thought you were a “dandy”.
1900s: Tall, Long & Lean
As we progressed into the 1900s men’s attire was largely practical and quite stiff. The long, slim, and athletic shape of the late 1890s survived, and tall, stiff collars characterize the time. Three-piece suits consisting of a sack coat with matching waistcoat and pants were worn, as were matching coat and waistcoat with contrasting trousers, or matching coat and trousers with contrasting waistcoat. Trousers were shorter than previously, typically had “turn-ups” or “cuffs“, and were creased front and back using the newly-invented trouser press.
After the war (which brought some iconic menswear designs that are being used today, such trench coats and cargos), commerce started to perk up and Americans had more money. More money allowed them to travel more and extend their horizons culturally and artistically. Many crossed the Atlantic to England and France. Naturally, they returned with luggage full of the latest fashion from overseas.
Of all the countries, England had the biggest effect on American clothing. In the 1920s, American college students began putting their own touch on things being worn at the famed Oxford University, including button-down shirts, natural-shouldered coats, regimental ties, and colorful argyle socks. Furthermore, the Prince of Wales, who subsequently became the Duke of Windsor, was the world’s most prominent and influential clothing figure. Through newsreels, newspapers, and magazines, the exquisite Prince became the first international “style icon” and became well known and acclaimed for his excellent taste in apparel. He was a true trendsetter for every day people and it was the first time in history that clothes merchants would utilize a celebrity face to sell apparel, brazenly pushing their wares “as worn by the Prince”.
1930s: The Height Of Elegance
The begining of the 1930s witnessed the Great Depression. Although the typical guy couldn’t afford to engage in the world of fashion, many often loved admiring the style choices of those who could. Hollywood films on the Silver Screen were a beacon for hope for the working class guy living in this age. Men and women alike looked with awe and desire to finely dressed entertainers like Fred Astaire, Clark Gabel, Cary Grant, and Gary Cooper.
In the 1930s, the American taste level was at its pinnacle, rivaling that of any European country. It was a time when American men took pleasure in the apparel they wore and the image they portrayed. It was a time when men dressed by particular norms of conduct and etiquette. The “menswear rules”, which we commonly cite, were written in this time.
“For the first time, American men realized that clothing should not be worn to hide the natural lines of the body, but, rather, to conform to them, thereby enhancing he male physique. At the same time, garments should not be too conspicuous. Instead, they had to become part of the man who was wearing them. The goal of clothes was not to set the man apart (as had been the case for ages, when monarchs and noblemen dressed largely to do precisely that) but to allow him to be an individual among individuals…. Americans had finally leanred that the purpose of decent attire was to flatter rather than be conspicuous.” — Alan Flusser
1940s: The Birth Of Ready-to-wear
With the end of World War II, American men drifted from the high standards and basic principles of elegant clothing established in the thirties. Part of this was changes in the workforce and the lack of formality in everyday life. With decreasing demand, the price of bespoke tailoring climbed, which enabled for the mass manufacturing of menswear to takeover as the common standard. This time witnessed the debut of mass made ready-to-wear apparel in America, with some firms still selling us items now.
There were pros and downsides to these new technologies of mass manufacturing. On the one hand, basic apparel was cheaper and more available than ever. On the other hand, there was less diversity in the fashions being supplied, and, much worse, these large clothing manufacturers understood (much like the vehicle manufacturers) that they could boost sales by giving changes in styles every year, or even every season. This began the “trend cycle” in retail, which was manufactured by clothes manufacturers to earn more money and pushed by the magazine business, likewise to make more money.
Ultimately, this marketing technique moved the customer farther and further away from the “ideals of classical dress” established in the 1930s, which were all about picking long-term items that best flatter the figure. Instead, the purpose of clothiers became to confuse and compel the client to perpetually “re-invent himself” by acquiring “new styles” that are “in fashion”. This drives more sales with little consideration for the durability or attractiveness of the appearance.
Read Also: 1830s Men's Fashion On Modern Styles
1950s: The Age Of Conformity
The 1950s was the Age of Conformity. Young men returning from the military were desperate to fit right in with the establishment. Fitting in and “looking the part” meant taking on the Ivy League style, which was dominating menswear. Individuality in style of clothing was an afterthought. The idea was to seem “part of the club”, with a boxy sack suit, oxford shirt, rep tie, and shoes. This was another significant boost for mass Ready-to-Wear makers who eagerly supplied the identical, ill-fitting tweed coats to any young guy seeking to seem sophisticated and employable.
Furthermore, the 1950s witnessed the debut of man-made materials like rayon and nylon. This was another boost to the bottom line for the clothing makers who could now save greatly on the cost of fabric, while creating a garment that was supposed to be “more durable and easiest to wash”. As it turns out, synthetic material makes for horrible menswear clothes, especially in suiting. Natural fibers are usually superior.
Aesthetically, the time was characterized by conservative gray suits and simple accessories (hat, pocket square, cigarette, and martini) for just about everyone.
1960s: Rebellion & Individuality
The 1960s were a decade of upheaval and rebellion against the establishment and the conservatism that was praised in the 1950s. Clothing reflected this changing mentality, especially among the youth who were more concerned with self-expression and individualism than traditional clothing by the “rulebook”. The apparel industry latched on to this new trend with the young and created a diversity of designs. Stores carried greater variety than ever. It was nearing a “anything goes” time, where often the thing that counted the most was not what you wore, but what you didn’t wear.
The was also the first time that dads began appealing to their kids for counsel. The first time in history when mature men aspired to seem young and care-free. This movement, of course, just moved us farther away from the principles of elegance that were established in the 1930s.